Dover is the heart of sole of fish world

Hilde G. Lee Daily Progress correspondent
Published: July 29, 2008

Whenever I think of certain foods or special occasions, recipes and their ingredients come to mind. This is the case with filet of sole. One of my fondest memories of sole was a simple dish, which I thoroughly enjoyed at the Hotel Louvre in Paris.

Owing to unforeseen circumstance, Allan and I spent a hectic few hours changing hotels late one afternoon in Paris. We were so grateful that the Hotel Louvre had a lovely room for us and were even more pleased with the lovely dining room. Our table was next to the window, which looked out on a kiosk of fresh fish. I later found out that on certain days the hotel sold some of its fish to the general public.

Allan spied a lobster on display and had it cooked, and I opted for filet of Dover sole. I have never tasted anything like it since. The fish was simply sauteed in butter and served with a lemon butter sauce to which a few capers had been added. I have eaten many filets of sole in restaurants since then, but never one like that at the Hotel Louvre.

Nothing’s fishy

No fish lends itself to such a variety of dishes as sole. One reason for its popularity is that sole does not have a “fishy” taste. Its texture and delicate flavor are ideal for the elaborate use of sauces, herbs, spices, even fruits and vegetables. It also contrasts well with shellfish, such as crab and shrimp. Few fish can tolerate such myriad additives without losing their identity. Sole is the traditional fish around which European chefs create their masterpieces.

Sole achieved a prime status in England in the days of horse transport, when enterprising wholesalers hired fast carriages to convey fish from the South Coast of England to Billingsgate Market in London. The bulk of their catch was landed at the port of Dover and soon Dover sole became synonymous with prime quality.

Dover dealings

When motor transport displaced the horse, inevitably all fresh soles earned the name “Dover.” Subsequently, commercial fish dealers created new sole names, not simply because of the value placed on the original but to make some of the less-inspiring flatfishes more glamorous. For example, a witch flounder hardly generates gastronomic interest when purveyed under its correct common name, but when marketed as “white sole” as it is in Ireland or as “gray sole” as it is in the United States, this edible flounder becomes acceptable to the consumer.

Thus the word “sole” encompasses a number of flatfishes. Dover sole and English sole even are accepted common names for two Pacific flounders, which bear no resemblance to true sole. Unfortunately, some of these impostors are inferior in texture and flavor and do

not lend themselves to sole recipes.

Much of the sole in the market today, such as rex sole, Petrale sole, lemon sole, butter sole, sand sole and yellowfin sole, are really flounders. They differ in taste but have been preferred by many over the costlier true sole.

There are four true soles in western Atlantic waters — the hogchoker, lined, naked and scrawled soles. They are small members of the sole family and seldom reach a length of more than eight inches. They also have little food value. Most of the time the true authentic Dover sole is only available in the United States as a frozen import from England and France. However, with air transport we are getting some fresh Dover sole.

Dover sole are found in the waters from the Mediterranean area to Denmark. Their thick-bodies produce a unique filet of fine texture and flavor. Dover sole has a rounded snout and a rounded, unbroken curve from back to belly. False soles have pointed snouts.

Among the sole substitutes is a favorite of mine, rex sole, the smallest Pacific flounder. It is extremely delicate and of fine texture. It also is less numerous than other flatfishes and commands a higher price. Rex sole is too thin to fillet properly and is usually cooked whole.

Petrale sole, a large Pacific flounder, is ranked first among Pacific flatfishes. It is found in waters from the Mexican border north to Alaska. Lemon sole is the U.S. market name for a winter flounder weighing more than three pounds. It is found in the waters off of Massachusetts and Long Island. In France lemon sole denotes a true sand sole.

In Charlottesville we occasionally are able to purchase gray sole or Petrale sole, both of which lend themselves to the following recipe. This Filet of Sole with Mushrooms is a microwave adaptation of my grandmother’s German recipe. It has a delicious sauce, which is excellent with rice.

Filet of Sole with Mushrooms

¼ cup butter

2 cups sliced mushrooms

½ cup sliced green onions

2½ tablespoons all purpose flour

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon pepper

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

1 cup milk

¾ pound sole fillets (usually 4 fillets)

Place the butter, mushrooms and onion in an 8 by 10-inch baking dish suitable for microwaving. Microwave on high for 3 to 4 minutes or until mushrooms and onion are partly cooked. Blend in the flour, salt, pepper and parsley. Stir in the milk and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap, venting 1 corner. Microwave on high 4 to 5 minutes or until the mixture bubbles.

Stir the sauce and arrange the sole fillets in it, covering the fish with some of the sauce. As sole filets can be very thin, it is advisable to put two on top of each other. Cover with plastic wrap and vent 1 corner.

Microwave on high 5 to 6 minutes or until the fish is done. Serve with steamed rice. Serves 2.