An idea that was Ripe for the picking

By David Maurer

Published: May 20, 2008

On a recent afternoon dozens of locavores could be seen gathering in the parking lot of Woodbrook Elementary School.

“Loca-what?” you might ask.

Don’t bother going to your dictionary for a definition, unless the edition is very current.

Last November the New Oxford American Dictionary named locavore the word of the year. It was coined in 2005 by four San Francisco women and refers to someone who eats food grown or produced within a 100-mile radius of where he lives.

The same year the word came into being, Brett Wilson was busy finding a convenient way for area locavores to access the bounty from nearby farms. The result of his brainstorming was Horse and Buggy Produce, based in Charlottesville.

From late April through October, Wilson purchases fruits and vegetables largely grown by Mennonite farming families in the Shenandoah Valley. Then each week, twice a month to single subscribers, he distributes the foodstuff at various pickup points to couples and families who have signed up for his program.

“It all started because I was raising spray-free tomatoes as a hobby and selling them to restaurants,” Wilson said recently as he and a few employees helped subscribers pick up their weekly supplies of in-season fruit and produce.

“I couldn’t keep up with the

demand, and I asked some farmers I knew if there was anyone around growing spray-free tomatoes. They said there were a bunch of old-order Mennonites in the valley who had just started a cooperative selling produce they’re growing in their vegetable gardens.

“I drove there in my little sub-compact car and came to an old equipment shed with all these horse-drawn buggies parked around it. When I walked in and saw what was there my jaw almost hit the floor.”

The former Oregon farm boy saw tables and carts laden with snapping-crisp produce and just-picked ripe fruit. He said he loaded his car so full that he barely made it over Afton Mountain on his way home.

Within a month of his discovery, Wilson went from serving six restaurants to 25. Business grew so fast that he had to borrow a friend’s pickup truck. When a curious young mother noticed all the produce in the bed of the truck she asked him about it.

“I explained what I was doing, and this woman said she knew 40 other mothers who would love to get this every week,” Wilson said. “I thought about it and in mid March 2006 I decided to do it.

“I called every private school in Charlottesville and told them I had a fund-raiser idea for them. I would give them the information on what I was about to do, and they would pass it on to their parents. For every subscription we got, I would give them 5 percent at the end of the season.

“I got 200 subscribers just like that. I ended the season with just under 300 families. Last year we had 975 families subscribing. Right now we’re at 900 families and I’m sure we’ll be at 1,300 by the end of the season.”

Mennonite cornucopia

Wilson drives to Bridgewater twice a week to tap into the Mennonites’ cornucopia. He also contracted with a number of local farmers outside the Mennonite community who have voiced an interest in participating in what he is doing.

“Virtually all our fruits and vegetables are spray free,” Wilson said. “We have to really watch things in July and August, because it’s so hot and humid.

“On occasion a farmer will have to use a mild synthetic to fight bugs, because the organics aren’t working. But we disclose that to all our customers.”

According to the Piedmont Environmental Council, there are a number of benefits for supporting the “green” economy by patronizing local farmer markets and businesses such as Horse and Buggy. Because local food hasn’t traveled far, it reduces carbon dioxide emissions and packing materials. It also keeps money circulating in the local economy, and it establishes links between growers and consumers.

Wilson recently was recognized by Albemarle County during Virginia Business Appreciation Week. Horse and Buggy Produce was singled out for praise because of its contribution to the local and state economy.

“Horse and Buggy Produce is filling an important role as a local distributor of produce,” said Susan Stimart, Albemarle County business development facilitator.

“They’re helping connect farmers with customers, which means our farmers don’t have to carry the burden of finding markets.

“There’s also an educational aspect to what they’re doing as well. People are discovering that local and organic crops might not look as pretty as those in the supermarket, but that’s OK, because they’re after the flavor and freshness.”

The council also cites taste, variety and freshness as reasons to become a locavore. Wilson said all those reasons have been voiced by his customers, but if he had to pinpoint what’s behind the increasing population of locavores it would come down to taste and nutrition.

Mother Nature’s intention

“I’m no expert in terms of nutrition,” Wilson said. “But I can only imagine that because our stuff is so fresh and has been allowed to grow to the point at which it’s supposed to be harvested as Mother Nature intended, it has to have a higher nutritional content than something picked prematurely and then shipped.

“People love the taste of our produce, because it is so fresh. And I say constantly that this is not the grocery store, because our produce is not perfect looking.

“It’s not about appearance. It’s about taste and wholesomeness. All our stuff is ripe when we get it, and we distribute it immediately. Nothing is older than 36 hours before somebody gets it.”

Many of Wilson’s subscribers also sign up for fresh eggs produced by chickens that live in pastures. As they do with the produce and fruit, customers rave about the flavor and texture of the eggs.

Gina Wegner heard about Horse and Buggy Produce from a neighbor. She and her family are new to the area and were delighted to learn about the business.

“We participated in a cooperative when we lived in Pennsylvania, and we were excited to find that this exists,” said Wegner, as her 5-year-old son, Colin, held a container of deep-red strawberries and his 8-year-old sister, Lauren, cradled a bunch of fresh rhubarb.

“The kids love the vegetables, and the rhubarb is one of their favorites. And the eggs are awesome. But the best thing this week is the strawberries — they’re so sweet.

“We signed up mostly for the freshness and the flavor. But it’s also nice to know we’re supporting local farmers.”

Anne Ochs and her 11-year-old daughter, Christy, said the strawberries they received the previous week were so sweet they didn’t have to sprinkle them with sugar as they normally do. As first-time subscribers, the Ochs discovered an additional benefit.

“We’ve started eating a lot more greens and vegetables,” Anne Ochs said. “And this is introducing me to some greens I’ve never eaten before.

“I’ve learned to cook them in ways that are really tasty. We’ve been so happy with the quality of everything, plus this is more fun and festive than going to the grocery store.”

The price of a family share is three payments of $280 or $304.50 with nine eggs. A couples’ share is three payments of $197, $214.50 with six eggs. Singles’ shares, delivered every other week, are three payments of $99.50, $108.50 with six eggs.

Wilson said his prices are comparable to or cheaper than those found in local grocery stores.

On a one-time basis he allows non-members to drop by and purchase items so they can conduct their own taste tests.

“Most people have no idea of the quality, variety and abundance of local food in Central Virginia,” Wilson said. “This is like being a member of Grandma’s garden, but we’re bringing it to you.

“People have no idea what they’re missing out on until they try it. Once they do taste the difference, it’ll be hard for them to ever go back to the status quo.”

For additional information visit http://www.horseandbuggyproduce.com or call 760-3652.